Mr.Bad Trash& Spookydoll
As Is-- Gleaning Fragments
One sees a ragpicker knocking against the walls,
Paying no heed to the spies of the cops, his thralls,
But stumbling like a poet lost in dreams;
He pours his heart out in stupendous schemes.
...
Yes, these people, plagued by household cares,
Bruised by hard work, tormented by their years,
Each bent double by the junk he carries,
The jumbled vomit of enormous Paris,-
--Charles Baudelaire, "The Wine of the
Ragpickers"
Benjamin
observed the Parisian chiffonier (or ragpicker) at the turn of the century:
When the new industrial processes had given refuse a certain value,
ragpickers appeared in the cities in larger numbers…The ragpicker
fascinated his epoch. The eyes of the first investigators of pauperism
were fixed on him with the mute question as to where the limits of human
misery lay. (Walter Benjamin Writing on Baudelaire)
Marx
lumped the ragpicker in with the lumpenproletariat : decayed
roués with dubious means of subsistence and of dubious origin,
alongside ruined and adventurous offshoots of the bourgeoisie, were
vagabonds, discharged soldiers, discharged jailbirds, escaped galley
slaves, swindlers, mountebanks, lazzaroni, pickpockets, tricksters,
gamblers, maquereaux, (pimps), brothel keepers, porters, literati, organ
grinders, ragpickers, knife grinders, tinkers, beggars - in short, the
whole indefinite, disintegrated mass, thrown hither and thither.
Welcome to As Is-- Start Scrounging
The Goodwill Industries' As-Is is a dump. Literally, it's a dumping ground for all the stuff the thrift store deems unfit for sale. So you find ugly glasses that were wildly overpriced by some clueless new employee, broken bicycles, heaps of shoes, and mountains and mountains of clothes that aren't worth half the price someone paid for them at Ross Dress for Less six months ago. Anything not sold at the end of the day is either thrown in the trash -- the dumpsters are locked at the end of the day, in case you were thinking of diving -- or, in the case of clothing, is pressed into 800-pound bales and shipped to either Mexico, Africa or India.
The customer service techniques seem to have been learned at the knee of a prison guard, judging from the relish with which they create and enforce arbitrary rules. "Get back from that!", screams one, as another hopper full of garments is dumped onto the sorting tables. "Don't touch those clothes until I say so!" When the OK signal is given, flea market vendors descend upon the smelly rags, flinging paint-splattered pants and kids underwear aside, hoping to find something that they can resell. The monetary value given these items, which are one step away from landfill, are determined by weight or whim. Garment prices are fixed at $1.29 per pound for most items, but prices for miscellaneous goods are arbitrarily made up when you bring them to the counter. If you don't like it, you can try to negotiate, but chances are they won't budge, and your merchandise will be chucked out at day`s end.
There is a rhythm to the daily activities. First, at
8 a.m., a rush to the sorting tables when the chain-link gate is rolled
back. Then an hour later, the first auction of the bins full of shoes,
books, Happy Meal toys, or broken electronics. The winners then begin
sorting through their booty in the parking lot, trying to mate shoes,
reassemble kitchen appliances, or salvage something saleable from the
mess. When the roach coach rolls up and blows its musical horn, employees
and shoppers both take a break for some tacos, hamburgers, or chilaquiles.
After a cigarette, sorting resumes, more clothes are dumped, and the
next round of auctions begin. By now the parking lot is full of pickups
overloaded with washing machines and mattresses, separated by piles
of rubbish, items rejected as too far gone to realize a profit, and
small piles of "valuable" goods. The security guard strolls about, shooing
kids off the property while their parents sort, and discouraging scroungers
from gleaning anything. By 2 p.m. shopping has ended, and at 3 only
the forklifts remain to clear the lot of detritus before the next day's
refuse goes on sale.
--Mr.BadTrash
inside As Is
Men sort trainers outside

The giant bales of clothing rejects, waiting to be shipped overseas
The regulars at the As Is bring laundry baskets and
bins to hold their stash. There's an unspoken rule-- you don't dig through
anyone else's stash, though the dumpsters outside are fair game if you
can avoid being caught by the security guard who is hired to make sure
nobody walks off with any trash, so it can safely make it to the dump.
Everyone waits in the open warehouse space, where trough-like tables
stretch its length. Regularly, workers wheel in pallets of clothing,
drapes, sheets and other textiles, and dump them in the troughs. Immediately
the women descend, picking through the mess, pulling out what is usable.
I wait with the other women, watching the clothes being dumped. A comforter,
filled with chicken feathers has exploded on the descent, filling the
place with snowy motes. As we pick through the fresh piles, I keep thinking
of that Melville story, The Tartarus of Maids, though, most of
the women are not maids. I find a few things hidden amongst the plethora
of last year's Gap and Target-- a 70's denim jacket, an embroidered
Indian purse, a Victorian petticoat. An older woman, dressed in a rayon
skirt and plastic flats, and a tight man's black tee shirt emblazoned
with Scooby Doo, digs through the piles across from me. She pulls out
this lacy, crocheted shawl, an old, elegant thing, and unfurls it around
her shoulders. She looks at me, and winks, aware I'm covetous. She looks
so good in it, so much like a Marquez matriarch, that I am happy. And,
with that thought, it seems I've lost my mojo, and can't find a thing--
it's all board shorts, stained white jeans and Winnie the Pooh ™
sweats, as far as the eye can see. It's at this moment that the piles
and piles detritus, the lint-filled air, overwhelm. The waste is an
obscene monument to privilege and manufactured obsolescence. This avalanche
of stuff becomes angst making, and I have to take a breather. Then,
a woman in an old white olympics tee and acid wash jeans closes in,
elbows me out of the way to dig through my patch in the trough.
To find stuff, you've got to be able to
turn off the chaos, repulsion and anger at the dwarfing river of waste
you're digging through, or you'll never find anything.
--Spookydoll
While wondering where this preponderance volume of waste comes from, we found out the following fragmentary facts:
- "in 1990, Americans generated 269 million tons [of municipal waste] at an average of 1.089 tons per person"
- Nike produces 90 million shoes per year.
- In the Mexican Tehuacán Valley, at least 300 clothing assembly plants or maquiladoras-- sweatshops-- crank out 5 million pairs of jeans a month for the US market.
- Chentex is a factory in a free-trade zone in Nicaragua which produces 20-25,000 pairs of jeans a day for Kohl’s, JC Penny, K-Mart and Wal-Mart. The workers earn 18 cents for each $24 pair of jeans.
- India’s leather production slaughters 1,125 cows a day for the US and UK market.
- In the Hermosa factory in El Salvador, women must attach 2000 sleeves to Nike T-shirts each shift, sewing one sleeve every 15.3 seconds nonstop for 8.5 hours. They are paid two-tenths of a cent for every sleeve they sew.
And
she said, I pray you, let me glean and gather after the reapers among
the sheaves: so she came, and hath continued even from the morning until
now... (Ruth 2:7)
...
We can't forget many ragpickers today are children
in India, Bangladesh, and other impoverished places, who cannot even
enjoy the small comforts offered Ruth.
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